2020 Freeman Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 750 ml

Freeman Vineyards is simply too good to be so little-known.

We’re a little puzzled that the winery does not enjoy the same critical and somm-set esteem that wineries like Williams-Selyem and Rochioli inspire, but part of it has to be their relatively small production: They make no more than 5,000 cases per year.

The keys to quality at Ken and Akiko Freeman’s 17-year old estate are their well-situated vineyards, which feature diverse Pinot clones. It also doesn’t hurt that they picked a master to consult from the beginning: Ed Kurtzman, an alum of Chalone, Testarossa, ROAR, and owner of his own labels August West and Sandler. 

Akiko is the head winemaker today, and she and Kurtzman vinify each clonal block individually, giving them the perfect palette of wines they then use to determine final blends. Their Russian River Valley Pinot Noir comes from the Gloria Vineyard, named for both the former landowner AND the hurricane that, thanks to an abandoned sailing expedition, drew Ken and Akiko together in 1985.

Gloria was planted in 2006 on the western edge of Russian River Valley’s Green Valley, to a pretty remarkable collection of low-yielding, highest-quality clones—including vines rumored to have come from Burgundy’s famed Grand Cru La Tâche. Two selections of the famed Calera clone are also planted, also imparting a dark, Vosne-like exoticism to the wine.

The Wine Access tasting panel fell silent while we took in this wine’s beautiful aromas of blackberries and roses, lilac, kola nut, and vanilla. It’s silky on the palate, just packed with spicy dark fruit. Enjoy this little Sonoma County secret, and bring on the tea-smoked duck and grilled spring onions.