Read anything at all about Charles Smith, the founder of K Vintners and one of the most important men in Washington wine, and you quickly learn about his rock and roll side. The motorcycle-riding former manager of the Raveonettes has been described as “Washington's wild man,” “larger-than-life,” and “wild and irrepressible”—and that’s just by the Wine Advocate.

But Smith brings that same intensity to every aspect of his winemaking.

The results are “always some of the best I'm able to taste from the state,” according to Jeb Dunnuck, who wrote those words in his time at Wine Advocate. Even among the starry lineup, Motor City Kitty always stands out as a highlight.

One of the coolest sites in the Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard is perfectly suited to creating the long hang-times that allow Syrah to reach perfect richness without sacrificing vibrancy. The loess topsoil allows for easy drainage, keeping berries small and vines stressed for low yields. The volcanic bedrock below reminds us of the great terroirs of the Northern Rhône, where granite dominates Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie.

In the winery, Smith and his winemaker Brennon Leighton have “mastered combining power with energy and freshness,” according to Wine Advocate. That means 100% whole clusters during fermentation, native yeasts, and a long maceration on the skins for optimal extraction. To allow the wine to fully harmonize, it’s given a luxurious 21-month stay in 25% new French oak puncheons—a larger barrel size that allows for gentle oxidation and a more moderate impact of the oak flavors.

It’s hard to overstate how much more this wine would cost if it came from a region like Côte-Rôtie or a California winery of similar stature. Washington wines offer unique value right now, but prices are starting to move steadily up, so lay in a six-pack (or three) while you can.